Tilting at Windmills: Los Alamos, New Mexico

There’s something kinda hidden about Los Alamos.  Over sixty years ago the greatest scientific minds were assembled here to work on the Manhattan project.  To this day Los Alamos has the National Lab and then there’s the Santa Fe Institute, a gathering of some of the greatest minds in the world that come together to try and figure out.. well..  everything.

What I am saying here is that there’s a lot of brain power in Northern New Mexico.  Sometimes, those great minds… they get bored.

The Ron is the head distiller for Don Quixote.  He first became interested in fermentation and distillation while a freshman in college.  He built his first still at the time which was quickly confiscated by campus police who didn’t believe his story that it was all for ‘reasearch purposes.’

On a trip to Ukraine, Ron met his wife, Olha.  She came from a proud distilling line.  Her father, a merchant marine couldn’t afford to pay his sailors so he offered them the best vodka and food as long as they sailed with him.

Ron’s engineering know how combined with Olha’s heritage and Don Quixote was born in the mountains of Northern New Mexico.

They have two locations in the area, one is Los Alamos and one outside Santa Fe. The downside is they only let you try five things at a time, which, given a really impressive selection is a bit torturous.  They had more then five… anything.  More then five red wines, more then five white wines and more then five liquors.  Hell, they have two grappas which I will get to later.  So I guess, what I am saying, there’s more to them then what I am about to say, but I really can’t say much.

Microdistillaries are a hard-to-find commodity in this world, so I stuck primarily with the spirits, although I did try a couple of the heavier reds.

Cabernet: The first thing I was told about their dry reds is that they were going to be sweeter then I was used to.  This was because the cuisine of the area tended on the spicy side.  Dry, peppery, oaky, these are great qualities in a red wine, but they just don’t go with the food in the area.  So, fair enough.

The cab had a port wine, raspberry and dark cherry aroma and I got a pretty much identical sensation in the flavor.  It was slightly sweeter then similar wines, but not overly so.  Dry red wines often leave a person wishing for a steak.  This is not the case here.  In a way the wine stands on its own.

Merlot: Very similar aroma to the cab.  I picked up a little more pepper on the palate and it was a little drier, but other then that I really couldn’t detect a huge difference between the two.

Okay enough with the wine.  It’s distillation time.

Bourbon: Made from blue corn and wheat.  Blue corn is used in a lot of cuisine here and has a slightly sweeter flavor.  I didn’t get that as much from the bourbon.  It was incredibly smooth, though.  There was some leathery, oaky notes.  It was slightly sweet but I don’t know if I could pick it out from any other high-quality bourbon.

Grappa: The story of grappa, as I was told, was that this was a peasant drink in old Italy.  As soon as the rich folk had used the grapes for their wines, the peasants would gather the rest, get what juice they could and distill it down.  They had two types at Don Quixote, aged and un-aged.  I went with the un-aged since I was told it wasn’t as sweet.  Light, semi neutral spirit.  I picked up some light port wine and cherry flavors along with a nice smooth character.

Gin: This was far and away my favorite.  Even those who consider gin, as one of my friends would put it, "pine trees and ass," would have to give this creation some props.  It’s made from blue corn again with New Mexico herbs and spices including juniper (of course) Pinon Chamisa Sage and lemons.  The result is this wonderful aroma like the desert after a rainstorm.  The astringent juniper berries are mellowed by the slightly spicy, slightly sweet concoction with just a hint of citrus in the back. Unlike the bourbon you can pick up quite a bit of the extra sweetness from the blue corn here.

Local Cred: LeClaire, Iowa

'Being local' is worn as a badge of honor in the craft spirit world.  The world 'local' is to microbrewers what the word 'edgy' is to bad indie bands.  What the world 'live' is to television producers.  The word 'fresh' to grocery stores.  The word artisanal to just about every other damn industry in this country.  It's philosophy and marketing all rolled into one.   In craft spirits, it's one of the many things that helps distingish the these small operations from the Big Boys and it's a handy justification for getting plowed like a December morn.

You're not a drunk, you are just a good citizen supporting the local economy.... supporting it until you sleep in the bathtub.

There are bragging rights, and then there is what the Mississippi River Distilling Company does.  They are local and they are willing to prove it.  Every bottle is labeled with the year and batch number.  From their web sight you can read the story about how exactly your little bottle of booze went from being grains in the field to being awesome in a glass.

On a side note, I would like to thank Dan Schurr of LeClaire and Tracy Doonan of Reynolds, Illinois for growing the corn and wheat for my bottle of River Baron.  Also a hat tip to the bottle crew who filled 1200 bottles in one night.

 Garrett, who owns the distillery that sits on the banks of the Mississippi River with his brother, makes locality major selling point when giving tours of his distillery.   He admits that the oak barrels they use for the whiskey are an exception to his '20 mile radius rule' but as Garrett says, "[the barrels] come from Minesota near the headwaters of the Mississippi.  We figure if they can float the barrels down the river to us, then it's local."

The distillery is open seven days a week for tours.  Iowa law limits the tasting any one person can do in a day, so I was only able to taste their River Baron and their Strawberry Vodka.

River Barron: This is described by the distillery as an 'artisinal liquor', in other words, it doesn't fit in any typical liquor category.  The mix of corn and wheat make it similar to a whiskey except that it's not barrel aged at all.  It's not really vodka because the mark of a good vodka is purity and a lack of flavor, whereas the light, sweet butterscotch flavors and aromas are very intentional.  The term 'moonshine' has certain connotations, but that's basically what it is is.  Really, really well made moonshine. 

Strawberry Vodka: This is the first distillery that I have run across that offers special seasonal liquors.  These are special creations that are available for a very limited time and then are gone forever... or at least until the distillers get the urge to make it again.   This had a nice light berry flavor without being overly sweet or syrupy.

They also offer two different types of whiskey, a bourbon and a rye whiskey.  They were out of both, but they did allow a quick smell from the barrels.    The burbon had lots of sweet fruity aromas, I picked out some pear and apple notes.  The rye was lighter and had a leathery quality to it.   I'll have to save the flavor for another time... see, that's how they get you.

The reemergence: Milwaukee Wisconsin

"This is a still found in one local gentelmans basement here in Milwaukee," said the tour guide, holding up a rusted metal pot with a funnel and pipe welded to the top, "this lovely bucket is a condenser," he said holding up a dirty bucket with a rusted metal coil, "This is all you need to make your own vodka. And that is a felony."
Proving my status as a sub-par journalizer, I don't remember the name of the tour guide at Great Lakes Distillary. If and when you go, ask his name. I've been there twice and it's the same guy.   Anyway this was how our introduction to the world of micro-distilling started.
Most days of the week, they have at least two tours though the distillery. They have a bar and a shop open at regular hours, but it's worth the tour if only for the tasting session afterward.

We started with the Rayherst Vodka. Obviously a neutral spirit. It was just slightly sweet with just a hint of almond flavor.

Lemon Honey Rayherst: Pretty much self explanatory. Lots of lemon, slightly sweet honey flavor. They use real lemon peels and honey and it really shows here. If you enjoy the flavored vodkas that have have come out over the past few years, seek this out.

Rayherst Gin: A very complex gin including juniper, sweet basil and ginseng. The aroma is pine and citrus. The flavor starts with orange and sweet herbal flavors. Juniper and other medicinal herbs follow. This has a different enough flavor that even those who don't like the 'pine tree' taste of gin might like this.

Roaring Dans Maple Rum: Named after a famous local pirate. Type the name 'Roaring Dan' into Google for a complete profile, but I will summarize here by saying that he made life interesting for anyone who used the Great Lakes to make a living. His namesake rum is made with real Wisconsen maple syrup. The aroma is sweet and woody, obviously from the maple. The flavor is mostly the same, although at 90 proof, there is a lot of alcohol flavor. This is best cut with an ice cube, but is very good either way.

Pumpkin Seasonal: It's rare to come across a liquor that is truly unique, but this is it. This is a batch of pumpkin ale brewed by the nearby Lakefront Brewing Company that was put through the still. The result is weird and wonderful. The aroma is fruity and sweet with cinnamon and clove. The flavor is heavy on pumpkin spices; cinnamon clove and coriander. It's slightly sweet and has a woody character about it as well.

Amerique 1912: There is probably no liquor in the world with more lore and mystery attached to it than Absinthe. In college parties all throughout this great nation of ours there are tales of wild trips to Eastern Europe and bouts with the Green Fairie that lead to vivid hallucinations and uninhibited debauchery that can only be experienced by drinking 'real absinthe'. It was those kind of stories that kept absinthe illegal in this country until 2006 when a group of people finally convinced the legislature of something that we all kind of knew. Those guys in college were full of shit and the great authors of the roaring 20's drank it because it was delicious, not because it is liquified peyote. Great Lakes Amerique is an American reproduction of an old European recipe that blends fennel, anise and wormwood. The aroma and flavor is all black licorice. It's slightly sweet with a creamy mouthfeel. Strait out of the bottle it's abou 120 proof as is meant to be cut with about a 2:1 ratio of ice water that creates a beautiful cloudy green appearance that makes you realize why this drink is the stuff of legend.